The Deep Pour - Or Why You Need Polyester Casting Resin Part FOUR - The Mistake/Learning Pour

This paper weight looks even better

in person than it does in this photo!

I love it! Whenever I see it I will remember that it is the result of making a big mistake. I always learn more when I do and you are looking at the second paper weight I made on this day of polyester casting resin experimentation.

My idea started out very simple.

Just pour Polyester Casting Resin into the mold and suspend one fabulous piece of Japanese paper.

That required two pours. One to about the halfway point in the mold. Then add the paper. Then a second pour to the brim of the mold.

The idea was good...but my result was not.....I have air pockets between the Japanese paper and the resin which makes it look awful. :(

Some of the paper looked amazing. So back to the experiment table.

I really wanted a Japanese paper, paper weight.

Good news. I figured out how to remove the cap this time. I used a paint can opener.

I made a batch of Polyester Casting resin. Poured it into the mold and let it gel (15-20 minutes.)

And here is the important tip! Had I read the instruction manual more carefully I would have realized that this is a step you can't skip....lazy girl.

I coated my paper with a little more polyester casting resin BEFORE I placed it into the mold!

I waited another 10-15 minutes to let the resin gel completely. A tiny fleck fell into my resin when I wasn't looking. That's when I had the A-HA moment.

I have loads and loads of buttons.

I made the last batch of resin and poured it into the mold over the Japanese paper. Then I applied a little resin to each button (like I did with the paper) before adding it to the resin in the mold.