Which Resin Should I Use?

Enviromental Technology Inc.
  They invented the first craft resin:  Envirotex Lite.
Environmental Technology Inc. (ETI) manufactures all the resin they sell.
This means they work with their own chemical engineers to create resins that are specially formulated for many different industries.

Here is a little reminder about which resin to use for different applications.

About Envirotex Lite
Envirotex Lite is known as a resin that can be poured over table tops or canvas and with one application is equal to 50 coats of varnish.  That sure is a time saver!  Then crafty jewelers and artists came along and started pouring it into interesting bezels and other enclosed shapes.   
You need to remember though that this resin was formulated for shallow pours.
Envirotex Lite – For Pours No Deeper than 1/8 of an inch.

 About EasyCast
Seeing that so many consumers wanted to pour resin into deeper molds and cavities, ETI engineered EasyCast.  EasyCast was designed to be used in a mold.  This is really important because if you are pouring resin into a one inch deep mold...and you want to accomplish that in one step...this is the resin for you.  The results are spectacular and there are several EasyCast posts on the blog.
So when you think deep pour - think EasyCast.

 About Jewelry Resin
And now the company is launching EnviroTex Jewelry Resin.  
It is special and unique chemical engineering that created a resin that enhances the surface on which it is applied, resulting in brighter, deeper and more intense colors.  EnviroTex® Jewelry Resin has amazing bubble release.  It is easy and fun to use and has a pleasing citrus scent!  Formulated for high resistance to light exposure and UV rays from the sun.  When cured, the resin coating is extremely durable, waterproof, heat & chemical resistant.
This resin was designed to pour into bezels!   
Again, working with the idea that most bezels are about 1/8 of an inch deep this resin works brilliantly for shallow pours.

FYI - I do not answer product specific questions, ETI has wonderful customer service to do that via mail, email and phone.  
http://eti-usa.com/contact/

64 comments:

  1. Would it be possible to dip clay into a shallow pot of Envirotex Lite to give it a thin coat, and then hang it up to dry? I would like to use envirotex to seal the clay and any images upon it, but I can't use bottlecaps, settings or anything like that because of the specific shapes I want to keep the clay. If I were to dip it into a thin mixture, or apply a thin coat with a brush or stick, then hang it up to dry to keep it from sticking to any surfaces nearby, would this set properly?

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  2. Hi Kim, Resin is pretty thick and I think if you "dip" clay pieces you might find a pool of resin at the bottom of the piece when you hang. I regularly brush resin across the surface of pieces...one side at a time. If you need a very light sealing coat you could also try ETI's spray: http://eti-usa.com/envirotex-spray/

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  3. Hi, I have been asked to teach a class on making Resin jewelry in April (!!) and I would like to teach with a UV curing resin so the students can take it with them. Do you guys have a version of UV curing resin? Thank you very much!

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  4. What is the most affordable resin to buy in bulk?

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    Replies
    1. That I would not know. You would need to call the store nearest you to ask or email or phone ETI's customer service.
      http://eti-usa.com/

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  5. I have been experimenting with ETI resins and I have some questions if you're kind enough to take the time to answer.

    1) Can I pour a layer of jewellery resin, and after it's cured, pour a layer of Easy Cast, or will there be problems?

    2) Do you have recommendations for what kind of brush to use with resin?

    3) Is it better to pour a thin layer of resin, insert an element (not paper) and then pour on top, or to let the first layer cure?

    4) Does resin release from cling-film (eg. SaranWrap)?

    TIA

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    Replies
    1. 1. Yes

      2. Disposable Nylon brush

      3. Both will work, however sometimes pieces may float and move with this process. Best to allow the first layer to tack up (4 hours minimum)

      4. Yes, once the resin has cured for at least 24 hours

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  6. 1) Can I pour a layer of jewellery resin, and after it's cured, pour a layer of Easy Cast, or will there be problems?
    ...........................
    1. Yes
    ----------------------
    Wow! Thank you so much. But, I'm unclear about the answer to #1: Yes, I can pour Easy Cast w/ no problem; or Yes, there will be problems.

    Thanks!

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    Replies
    1. Yes, you can pour! The two resin work well together! I usually never mix them because if I am working in a mold EasyCast is best and when I work in bezels I use Jewelry Resin or Envirotex Lite exclusively.

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  7. is it possible to brush a natural object - say, a small piece of bark - with the resin so that it is encased and hardened?

    also, would brushing a surface more than once (i suppose after the prior layer was set) muddy the clarity or strengthen the coat (or both)

    thank you!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Yes, absolutely. The item needs to be really dry, as any moisture would corrupt the resin long term. Usually natural things like flowers do appear darker under resin. Second coatings do strengthen the piece and usually cover any missed areas.
      Resin on resin remain super clear.

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  8. I have a rock cutter and would like to place thin cut rocks on the bottom or dinner plates and over with...epoxy? Resin? Something that is food grade, heat resistant, and something that I can pour that is clear and hardens. Can you help?

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    Replies
    1. Most epoxy coatings can be used in food prep areas that have limited food contact, but they are not approved for continueous food contact.

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  9. Do you know what the least expensive UV light cure resin is? It's so frickin' expensive!

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    Replies
    1. Sorry, we do not manufacture a UV curing resin.

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  10. I have an awesome birthday card with faux jewels. Could it be brushed with resin then applied to a shirt or maybe a purse? would it be washable?

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    Replies
    1. The type of rhinestones that are on cards are usually plastic...and some plastic does just melt in resin, so I really could not say. I make lots of embellishments to attach to flat surfaces with resin, but I never wash them, so they are okay.

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  11. Hi Carmi,
    I've been using easycast for all of my projects and it has worked great. I'm trying to add flowers both dried and fresh but every time I brush resin onto them they change colors or shrivel. I've tried to fix this by adding mod podge before but the mod podge discolors it too. I know you have used flowers before, any idea what I'm doing wrong?

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    Replies
    1. The lighter the flower the darker it becomes....even dried, flowers just absorb glues. I try and do one super fast coat of a decoupage medium, let that dry and then cover it again 2-3 more times before I pour resin over them. My red roses always perform the best as do the purple flowers.

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  12. In some of the projects included in the web site, they mention using propane torch. However they do not specify when to use it, how to use it and why you would need it in the first place. Care to expand on this topic for me

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    Replies
    1. I don't ever use a propane torch. Occasionally I use a lighter which I quickly pass over the surface of freshly poured resin in order to speed up popping air bubbles. Some people use a heat gun to pop air bubbles...which moves the resin around too much, I prefer the lighter flame.

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  13. Hi Carmi,
    I would like to create some fabric cylindrical beads by wrapping and sewing the fabric around small pieces of bamboo, then sealing and protecting the fabric beads by dipping them in a resin.

    Would you recommend the jewelry resin for this? I would like the colour of the fabric to be emphasised nicely, without too much of a shiny finish.

    Is there a resin that is somewhat heatproof? (I would like to use the beads in some silver jewellery designs, but that might mean that I will need to solder the silver, which will make the resin-coated bead become very hot.

    Thank you!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Hi Elanor,
      ETI has a full time customer service department that can help you.

      Contact
      Environmental Technology, Inc.

      PO Box 365 South Bay Depot Rd.,
      Fields Landing, California.
      95537-0365
      Ph: (707) 443-9323
      Fax: (707) 443-7962
      http://www.eti-usa.com

      Delete
  14. Hello! I'm unsure if you'll know the answers to this since it does not have to do with jewelry, but I thought I'd ask anyway just in case.

    I've only ever used epoxy resin for coasters, but I recently decoupaged a wallet and a cellphone case for a client and I was wondering if I could perhaps seal it with epoxy resin rather than my usual sealers (since I love how it looks on coasters and so that it is more heat resistant and water proof). My question is if I put a thin enough layer on these (especially the wallet), would they still be flexible enough to use while still giving a nice durable finish? What resin would be the best for this sort of thing?

    Thank you!

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    Replies
    1. I have not tried anything like this. I do not think it would be good for a wallet...as more than likely the resin would crack. You can always ask customer service. See answer above.

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  15. HI Carmi,

    Thanks for your very informative blog!

    I am about to try a project and not sure which resin is right. I have been making mandalas out of candy and photographing them- see here: http://paulabrettart.com/?page_id=12

    Now I want to try to make these permanent and encase them in resin. I have the clear poly resin as I want the pour to be about an inch thick and about 17" in diameter. They don't necessarily need to "float", but they do need to sit flat against the wall, since they are artworks.

    The mold I thought to use is one of those clear plastic "saucer liners" for plants, since the sides come straight up. I could also use a cake pan. Alternatively, I could glue these down onto a board, and then pour the resin on top with some type of circular hoop mold.

    What do you think? Kind of resin..will my saucer liner work, or should I glue down, and if I do, will that cause any problems?

    Thanks so much!
    Paula

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Hi Paula, I would not be able to answer all your questions here. ETI has a full time customer service department that can help you.

      Contact
      Environmental Technology, Inc.

      PO Box 365 South Bay Depot Rd.,
      Fields Landing, California.
      95537-0365
      Ph: (707) 443-9323
      Fax: (707) 443-7962
      http://www.eti-usa.com

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    2. Thanks, Carmi. They helped a TON!!

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  16. Great read! I would like to create a "stained glass" piece to hang in my bathroom window. I plan on using an small window frame/picture frame filled with sea glass with a resin poured over it to seal it. What resin would work best for this project?

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    Replies
    1. Hello there, I could not type a reply for you because I have not worked with glass under resin. ETI has a full time customer service department that can help you. Call them and they will give you great advice.
      Contact
      Environmental Technology, Inc.
      PO Box 365 South Bay Depot Rd.,
      Fields Landing, California.
      95537-0365
      Ph: (707) 443-9323
      Fax: (707) 443-7962
      http://www.eti-usa.com

      Delete
  17. Hello
    I am wanting to use resin for my minature charm potion bottle, you know, the ones with corks on. I stumbled on resin, as i some how wanted the jars to be stronger and possibly take a knock more. Which resin would you recommed for this?

    Thanks Amanda

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    Replies
    1. Either Envirotex Lite or Envirotex Jewelry Resin. I have used both in those tiny bottles.
      I have a post about that later this week too!

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    2. wow! Did not expect that quick a response, Thank you!. I am literally resined out...Soooooooooooo many you tube tutorials and revies etc....I was going with Easy cast at first, till i came across your blog.

      Thankyou again and I'll keep an eye out out for it..

      Thanks Amanda

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    3. Use what you have because it is a tiny pour. If you already have EasyCast it will be perfect too!

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    4. I don't have any as yet, been too busy researching the damn stuff LOL...for way to long if i am to be .honest. Then i stumbled on your blog. Learnt alot, so thanks for that. Was just confused about it all. Some i want to look like coloured water, some just clear, was unsure if to fill in one go or layers haha to much research in a little time has left me confused

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  18. I am using beer bottle caps to line the bottom of a cooler. Would the Envirotex Jewelry resin be the best way to go?

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Will you still be using it as a cooler...adding ice and water? For a bigger project I would advice purchasing Envirotex Lite. But I also recommend giving our customer service line a call for more advice.
      Contact
      Environmental Technology, Inc.
      Ph: (707) 443-9323
      Fax: (707) 443-7962
      http://www.eti-usa.com

      Delete
  19. I would like to find a resin to coat beads made out of recycled cardboard with ink jet pictures added to the surface. I loved Modge Podge Dimensional Magic at first, but after a week it has gone cloudy, which is not acceptable. Which type of Envirotex resin should I try?

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  20. I would try Envirotex Lite - The original resin. Be sure you seal your paper with mod podge or another sealing medium before you apply resin to it. On the blog there are tips on sealing paper.

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  21. What dyes can be added in transparent pitch for giving of necessary color? And in what quantities not to spoil quality of pitch?

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. ETI has a full time customer service department that can help you.

      Contact
      Environmental Technology, Inc.

      PO Box 365 South Bay Depot Rd.,
      Fields Landing, California.
      95537-0365
      Ph: (707) 443-9323
      Fax: (707) 443-7962
      http://www.eti-usa.com

      Delete
  22. Hello, I am wondering which resin to use to make pebble soap rests. I have been using Envirotex Lite, but since learning there are other options, I wanted to find out if this is the right one.
    I am using molds and only add enough resin to hold the pebbles together (I think this is the equivalent of a 'shallow pour'.) There are spaces between the pebbles and water drains through. I want to ensure the resin I choose is 1) waterproof and 2) stable in the presence of pH 8-10 over the long term, as wet soap residue will undoubtedly collect on the surface.
    I am also wondering if your Mold Release works with Envirotex Lite.
    Thanks!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. As you may have noticed from the other questions, we do have a customer service office that will answer your questions. I would not be able to type a response here.

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  23. Hi, wonderful info here!

    So my project is decorating a dresser top. I want to put art paper down then cover it with a layer of epoxy/resin/plastic, etc. I've already purchased ETI's Clear Polyester Casting Resin: Liquid Plastic for the project, but now I'm having doubts. Do you think this will work or return it and pick up the EnviroTex Lite instead? Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks so much! - Jennifer

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. I am so glad you asked!!! Definately use Envirotex Lite instead!!! It was designed for the type of project you are doing and the polyester resin is for pouring into molds...totally different.

      Envirotex Lite is so easy to mix 1 to 1 ratio!! On the Facebook page I posted a link to a very cool table project that might help!

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    2. http://www.craftsunleashed.com/decor-home/how-to-refinish-a-table/

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  24. Hi,

    I was looking for castin craft for the molds, but couldn't find it. I picked up some EnviroTex Lite pour-on High Gloss Finish. Would this work for a mold as well? I know it says it is for flat surfaces, but would it still harden in a martini glass mold? I'd appreciate your input.

    Thanks!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. You can only pour it to a shallow depth. I have used it in small molds when I have had leftover resin from other projects. If your mold is over 1/2 inch deep it can get super hot. EasyCast was designed to be poured into molds which is why I prefer it.

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  25. Ok, I am expecting it to get hot, as I have read a lot about that reaction from people who are doing the same sort of project I am. That isn't a problem at all for me, I am just wondering if it actually works. If not, I'll try to exchange it....but I live in a small town and easycast has proven difficult to find.

    Thanks for your input.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Try Amazon if you shop online!
      http://amzn.com/B000XAR0DM

      Delete
  26. Hi there
    I have been using EnviroTex resin for years on my polymer clay image transfer pendants. It has been hit or miss lately. I pour the resin, everything looks wonderful. The next day some are curing great while others have a small line of fog thru the centers. You can see it when you hold it up to the light. It is frustrating as I never know why it is happening. What am I doing wrong?

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. One would need more information then what is stated to know exactly what is causing this foggy appearance. Generally foggy or cloudy resin is the result of mixing cold product, however a cloudy or foggy appearance can occur when coating over polymer clay do to the oil in the clay. To avoid this, one should always spray 3 to 4 coats of a fast drying acrylic on the polymer pieces before coating them.

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  27. Thanks I will give that a try.

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  28. I have galvanized metal feed buckets that I am wanting to turn into bathroom sinks. Can I take modeling clay and form a "bowl" in the bottom of my bucket so water will drain and then coat with Envirotex Lite 1 to 1 Polymer coating to give the smooth finish. My question is more how the modeling clay will react with the Polymer coating, will it set up properly?

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. For the galvanized feed bucket/sink, it gets a little more complicated. EnviroTex Lite is not suitable for exterior use and here’s why. The substrate to which it is applied will expand and contract with the change in temperatures. This is not something we see with the naked eye but it does happen and our products will fracture under those conditions. This is also one of the reasons why the products are not suitable for floor use. I believe this sink application will run into the same problems. In addition polymer clay seems to have an oil content which discourages the epoxy from coating effectively in a single layer so two layers are usually necessary. Epoxy coating does not form a chemical bond with the polymer but simply sits on the surface. If exposed to high temperatures or impact delamination may occur. It may be safe to coat say a polymer bead, once 2-3 coats of an acrylic spray was applied, however the bottom of a sink will not work well.

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  29. Hi, I was wanting to make tiles by casting small objects in square moulds. I was then hoping to glue these to a table top can then pour more resin over, as I want to build up my tiles over time. Would you be able to see the individual tiles if they are fully submerged or would it look like one big casting? Thank you, Lianne

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Hi Lianne,
      If you would like to contact our technical department Marty will be able to answer that question for you better then me. msanchez@eti-usa.com
      Thank you!

      Delete
  30. Hi, I've made several trays adhering labels, bottle caps, etc. and covering with a layer of EnviroTex Lite. One of my trays dried with bubbles. Is there a way to remove the bubbles or sand them down and repour?
    Thanks.

    ReplyDelete
  31. The best way to deal with bubbles is to properly de-gas the product once poured. An embossing gun works well. If the coating dries with bubbles in it you have a couple choices. You can live with it or go in after them. For bubbles on the surface you will need to remove the top off the bubble. You can do this with 220 grit sandpaper or a small craft razor. Once the tops are off clean the surface with an old t-shirt and denatured alcohol or acetone, regular isopropyl alcohol is fine too. Then mix a small amount of product and fill in the bubbles. Let dry and then re-flood to pull it all together. If the bubbles are buried in the coating you can go in after them with a dremel. Then clean, fill holes, let dry and re-flood. Whenever you must sand or dremel out bubbles you must be slow and gentle. Slight clouding and scratches will disappear under the next flood. However if we have gotten too aggressive we can put what results as a white burn mark in the product that cannot be cleaned or away. A fine white dust will be created when sanding, please wear eye protection and a mask. You do not want to breathe it in.

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  32. Hello! Thank you for much for the informative article!

    I have yet to start using resin so I'm still pretty confused in choosing a right one.
    I intend to cast a 2cm resin orb that i will embed with fresh leaves. You mentioned that EasyCast is good for deep pours so I assume a 2cm orb is too?
    I have also heard from many that EasyCast is not that hard after cured and leave 'dents' in it with fingernail even after it has cured properly and fully. Do you suggest an application of coat to keep it more durable?

    Hope to hear from you soon!
    Thank you.
    Best Regards,
    Christine Cheong

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Hi Christine,

      Here is what our Technical Support sent in response to your question:

      First let us discuss the ‘fresh leaves’. Items cast in epoxy or casting resin must be dry. Any moisture in these biological items will cause issues in the casting. In addition these items must be sealed before casting. If not the item will appear to have a dark/wet spots on them. Items can be sealed with our Envirotex spray or any acrylic spray.

      When casting we have two products to consider. Easy Cast, our two part casting epoxy can only be mixed and poured 6 ounces at a time. You must then wait for it to gel or dry (depending on the look you are trying to achieve) before adding another layer. If you are doing a casting that calls for being able to see the different layers then you wait for the previous layer to dry. If you want the piece to blend seamlessly then you wait for the previous layer to gel. This product is very user friendly and if properly measured and blended should be quite hard.

      Polyester Casting resin requires use of the catalyst. You are not limited in how much you may mix at one time. This can be a little trickier to work with. You must know how many ounces of resin the mold you are working with will hold, and the depth to which you will pour it. Then you plug that information in to the formula on the can to determine how much catalyst you must add. I recommend people keep a notebook when working with this product. Write down the information/formula you are using. If it works well put a star next to it. If it does not work draw a line through it so you can still see it but know that it was unsuccessful and not to be repeated.

      I hope this information is helpful. Please let me know if I can be of any further assistance.

      Best Regards,

      Marty Sanchez

      Technician/Customer Service

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  33. After the product has hardened, can it be sanded to smooth out ridges??

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    Replies
    1. Yes the product can be gently sanded. Sanding will cause minor scratches and slight cloudiness. If you get too aggressive with sanding you may put a white burn mark in the surface that cannot be removed; so easy does it. To address the cloudiness left behind you may want to try a paste wax to polish it. The other option would be to do another coat of resin. If you are unable to get it polished with a paste wax then it would be necessary to remove the wax before re-coating.

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Thank you so much for leaving a comment on Resin Crafts Blog! For technical questions you can email our customer service at: msanchez@eti-usa.com or via telephone @ 1-800-368-9323.