Thursday, July 28, 2016

ETI Resin is Blog Hopping with Gel Press

Welcome to the ETI/Gel Press Blog Hop. The designers for both companies have been creating wonderful projects. Please leave a comment on EACH blog. Tell us on the Gel Press blog and on our blog (Resin Crafts) as to which projects you found most interesting or inspiring. 

Now let's get started:

ETI Blog (you are here)



One winner will be picked, at random, Sunday, July 31, 2016, at 10pm CST. 





The winner will get both Petite sets of Gel Press plates and ETI Jewelry Resin! Hop now through Sunday! Winner must be 18 or over and live in the USA. Good Luck!

Tuesday, July 26, 2016

Bottle Cap Table Top with EnviroTex Lite®

Today we have a multi-layered bottle cap table top project from Hillary Stephens using EnviroTex Lite® pour on coating.




Materials:
  • EnviroTex Lite® 
  • Table base
  • Bottle caps, must be clean and dry; plan on 100 caps per square foot.
  • Craft glue (that dries clear)
  • Mixing cups 
  • Stir sticks
  • Foam or sponge craft brushes
  • Propane torch or lighter
  • Gloves and eye protection
  • Painter tape (optional)
  • Sand paper (optional)
  • Alcohol or Acetone (optional)
Project Instructions:  
  • If project base is made of wood, seal wood with a thin layer of white glue or paint the surface and let dry.  The thin layer will seal the air pockets of the wood and prevent air from releasing bubbles in the thick layers of the EnviroTex Lite®.  If you choose to use the EnviroTex Lite® as the thin sealing layer, apply with a sponge brush.  Don't use the propane torch on this thin layer of the EnviroTex Lite®.  DO use the propane torch on subsequent layers.
     
  • Projects with a permanent rim that contains the coating are most easy.  Temporary borders may be created by affixing painters masking tape to sides of project, allowing tape to stick up and create a dam.  Pour a layer of the EnviroTex Lite®.  Remove the tape 8‐10 hours later and apply new tape for each layer.  The tape will NOT result in a straight, smooth edge.  For the final layer, we recommend sanding the sharp edge with sandpaper and pouring the EnviroTex Lite® on the top and allowing coating to flow over the side of the project; this layer will conceal all sanding marks and will make the sides of the project clear and smooth.  Drips may be sanded from the underside later. Slats of wood coated with two layers of paste wax can also be used for temporary border; seams of the wood slats must be taped to prevent coating from flowing and dripping through seams.
     
  • Glue the bottle caps in place with white glue; fill ruffled area of bottle cap with glue to prevent air from escaping from underneath.  Allow glue to dry overnight.  Caps must be glued in place because cap can lift and float.
     
  • Apply the first of several layers of the EnviroTex Lite®; use 6 ounces of pour on coating for every 12 square inches.  Most bottle cap projects will require 3‐5 layers of 6 ounce volume; allow 8 hours curing time between layers.  Bubbles will form around the sides of the cap, swish a brush around the cap to encourage the bubbles to release and rise.
     
  • Coating may be sanded between layers but it's not necessary. If surface is sanded, wipe with alcohol or acetone and a clean rag to remove dust particles.  If surface is sanded it must be re‐coated.


TIPS on BLENDING COATING: always measure equal parts of resin and hardener. Blend in bucket with (only) a wood paint stick for two minutes, mixing vigorously while scraping sides and bottom of bucket. Then pour coating into a new, clean bucket and blend for another minute. Thorough blending is achieved by the above mixing method only! Discard mixing stick. Pour coating onto project immediately. Use propane torch to remove bubbles from coating. You may need to use propane torch several times during a forty five
minute period following application. Important: read all instructions included in kit.




TIPS on BLENDING COATING: Always measure equal parts of resin and hardener. 



Blend  with a wood paint stick for two minutes, mixing vigorously while scraping sides and bottom of the mixing cup



Then pour coating into a new, clean mixing cup and blend for another minute. Thorough blending is achieved by the above mixing method only! Discard mixing stick. Pour coating onto project immediately.  Use the propane torch to remove bubbles from the coating. You may need to use the propane torch several times during a forty-five minute period, following the application. Important: read all instructions included in the kit.

Thursday, July 21, 2016

Wood Plate with Paper or Fabric and EnviroTex Lite®

Today we have a multi‐layer home decor project using EnviroTex Lite® Pour On Coating and assorted papers or fabric motifs created by Hillary Stephens.





Materials:
  • EnviroTex Lite® 
  • Wood plate
  • Paper or fabric of choice
  • Craft glue (that dries clear)
  • Scissors
  • Mixing cups 
  • Stir sticks
  • Foam or sponge craft brushes
  • Propane torch or lighter
  • Gloves and eye protection
  • Sand paper (optional)
  • Alcohol or Acetone (optional)
Project Instructions:  
  • NOTE: If project base is made of wood, stain and then seal the wood with a thin layer of white glue or paint the surface and let dry. The thin layer will seal the air pockets of the wood and prevent air from releasing bubbles in the thick layers of EnviroTex Lite®.  If you choose to use EnviroTex Lite® as the thin sealing layer, apply with a sponge brush. Don't use the propane torch on this thin layer of EnviroTex Lite®.  DO use the propane torch on subsequent layers to remove bubbles.
     
  • Mount paper or fabric patches to the surface of the table using white glue that dries clear. The paper must be smoothed onto the surface and all air bubbles pressed from beneath the paper.  Allow glue to dry.  Apply TWO layers of white glue over the top of paper or fabric, allowing each layer to dry thoroughly.  Apply glue with the sponge brush.  The glue creates a protective layer to prevent EnviroTex Lite® from being absorbed and darkening paper.  Allow final layer of glue to dry overnight.
     
  • Apply first of two layers of Envirotex Lite; use recommended coverage amounts found on the instruction page.  For instance, one half gallon will cover 16 square feet 1/16th to 1/8th inch thick.  Many projects will require two layers, allow 8 hours between layers.  The coating may be sanded between layers but it's not necessary.  If the surface is sanded, wipe with alcohol or acetone and a clean rag to remove dust particles. If the surface is sanded it must be re‐coated.



TIPS on BLENDING COATING: Always measure equal parts of resin and hardener. 



Blend  with a wood paint stick for two minutes, mixing vigorously while scraping sides and bottom of the bucket. 



Then pour coating into a new, clean mixing cup and blend for another minute. Thorough blending is achieved by the above mixing method only! Discard mixing stick. Pour coating onto project immediately. Use propane torch to remove bubbles from coating. You may need to use propane torch several times during a forty-five minute period following application. Important: read all instructions included in the kit.

Tuesday, July 19, 2016

EasySculpt® Fish Decor


I am so excited to share my project with you. I painted a fish a few weeks ago and covered it with EnviroTex Lite®. (You can see it here if you missed it)

I thought to myself, hmm.... I wonder if I could sculpt one using Easy Sculpt®

Guess What?!! 

I did and here is how.
Materials:
  • Easy Sculpt®
  • Rubber Gloves-couple pairs
  • Teflon Mat
  • Styrofoam Balls
  • Vegtable oil or Talc Powder
  • Gesso
  • Acrylic Paint - I used DecoArt Media 
  • Brushes
  • Wood Panel
  • Glue-Power Tac
  • Varnish


Gather all supplies and cover working area with a non stick mat.


Cut Styrofoam ball in half for body of fish.

I am showing this to show you what NOT to do! I usally make an armature with foil, I Quickly learned that it doesn't play well with Easy Sculpt®!


Take equal amounts of Easy Sculpt A & B and mix them thoroughly wearing your gloves. I used vegtable oil on my gloves to help with the Easy Sculpt from getting to sticky on my gloves. In order for you to be able to sculpt you will need to wait a bit before it gets to sculpting stage. Follow manufacuter directions.


Start to sculpt your fish with the body and then move to lips. I did the tail next. Make a top and bottom fin and a side fin. Notice how I propped up the fins to get the waves in them.


I attached the top and bottom fin to the fish. Once happy with it, I let it dry overnight.


The next day I mixed equal amounts of A & B again so that I could attach the side fin. I also added a few more details. I propped up the fin till it was dry.


Gesso the board a the fish, I do this so that the paint has something to stick to.


Paint fish to your liking. Have fun with it!

I lightly sketched out on the board some plants.


Once everything is dry. Use glue to attach to board.


Seal with a varnish and enjoy!



I absolutly LOVE how this piece turned out and I hope you enjoyed it also. Any eagle eyes out there? Did you notice that I clipped off the top long fins. I felt it was to much. 

Thank you for stopping by the blog today!
Donna Budzynski

Thursday, July 14, 2016

Mosaic Shard ART with EasyCast®

If you’ve always wanted to create glass mosaic art but didn’t want to fuss with all that sharp, broken glass, here’s an easy and fun method of creating your own glass-like mosaic shards using EasyCast® epoxy resin as the “glass” mosaic material.  This project created by Hillary Stephens, will require at least two working sessions: one to make your colored resin pieces and the second session to do the mosaic artwork.  Hillary describes two similar methods of creating a resin mosaic art piece.


Materials:
  • Castin’ Craft brand EasyCast® Epoxy Resin 16 ounce kit (enough for 11 x 14 piece)
  • Castin’ Craft Transparent Dyes and/or Opaque pigments and/or Jacquard brand Pinata Alcohol Ink
  • A design on paper to use as a pattern 
  • Wood plaque (trays, box lids, table tops and other surfaces may be used)
  • Acrylic craft paint 
  • Plastic sheeting or zip loc bag
  • Mona Lisa brand Metal Leaf Adhesive Size
  • Sharpie brand permanent marker
  • Rubbing alcohol
  • Q-tips
  • Fiskers brand Quick Release Multi Snip tool 
  • Mixing cups 
  • Stir sticks
  • Foam or sponge craft brushes
  • Small disposable drink cups
  • Gloves and eye protection
  • Heat gun or hair dryer
Project Instructions: 

Method #1 Pouring on top of a picture: Find a simple poster or picture that you like. We chose a sunflower design because the flower was bold and didn’t have a lot of small, individual details.  If possible, make photocopies of your design as copies may come in handy later.  Pour each colored epoxy onto the appropriate color of your plastic protected picture.  The epoxy will spread and merge with other colors but don’t be too concerned because you’ll be trimming out the epoxy pieces anyway.  You can combine cups of color to make additional colors.  Let the epoxy dry in place for 10-18 hours.  The longer the epoxy sheet cures the more rigid and difficult it can be to snip into pieces, particularly shapes that are rounded.
Method #2 Free form without the picture: Mix about six ounces of EasyCast.  Divide portions into small cups and add between 3-6 drops of dye to each; blend completely. Make as many colors as desired.  You can also combine cups of color to make additional colors.  Pour the epoxy onto the sheet to create the “glass” mosaic material. If desired, allow the colors to blend together on the plastic sheeting to create additional shades.  Let the epoxy dry in place for 10-18 hours.  The longer the epoxy sheet cures the more rigid and difficult it can be to snip into pieces, particularly shapes that are rounded
Cover your work surface with heavy plastic sheeting.  Tape the picture onto the plastic sheet and cover it with a piece of clear plastic; sandwich like.  Or use a heavy Ziploc bag; seal the picture inside the bag if it fits!

Mix equal amounts of EasyCast® to have about six ounces in total.  Mix together for 2 minutes.  TIP: six ounces of mixed epoxy spread over a one square foot will make the perfect thickness for the epoxy shards.  If the epoxy is too thick it’s much harder to trim into shape.  Too thin a layer will result in shards that lack color density.

Pour into a second cup and stir for another minute.  Pour portions into small cups and add between 3-6 drops of dye to each; blend completely.  Example: if the picture has about four colors, prepare a cup for each color.

Meanwhile, apply two layers of paint to the plaque surface and let dry.  The paint will be the background color and will look like grout in between the mosaic pieces.  Consider using a light colored background especially if the epoxy is transparent.  Dark colored backgrounds may make the transparent colored epoxy much darker.  Scrapbook paper may be used in place of the paint; remember that any design on the paper will show through the shards so take a few pieces of the shards to test with when purchasing paper.  Lacy designs create an interesting visual texture.
Peel the epoxy from the plastic sheet.  If the epoxy is transparent, place it on top of the picture and trace the pattern onto the epoxy sheet with the Sharpie marker.  If the epoxy is opaque or solid colored, you’ll need to first cut out the various pieces of your picture and use them as a pattern or template.  This is when one of the photocopies may come in handy!
TIP: use a small heat gun or hair dryer to warm the mosaic pieces before trimming! The heat will soften the thin shards of epoxy so that cutting is easier and more accurate.
Using the snip tool, trim the pieces from the sheet of epoxy.  Then, if necessary, use alcohol and a Q-tip to remove the marker ink from the edges of the pieces.  The easiest method of keeping track of the individual mosaic pieces is to lay them back onto the picture; use one of the photocopies for this purpose.  Once all major pieces of the mosaic are cut out, you’re ready to assemble the mosaic.
Brush two layers of the metal leaf adhesive on the plaque.  Each layer of adhesive will become tacky after a few minutes.  This adhesive will remain tacky over several days so no need to rush; just reapply the adhesive if it seems too dry.  The adhesive is used just to hold the mosaic pieces in place but will not actually glue them to the project surface so be careful if the project must be moved before it’s coated with EasyCast®.  Position the mosaic shards in place on the plaque, leaving a small space between the pieces to create the illusion of grout lines.  Trim and shape the pieces as needed.  Once the major portions of the design are in place on the plaque, then begin to snip additional pieces to fill the background.  Do not allow the edges of the shards to meet or overlap the edges of the plaque; leave a narrow area along the outside edges to achieve a more finished appearance.
To complete the mosaic project, place the plaque onto four small disposable drink cups.  Mix another batch of EasyCast.  To determine the amount of EasyCast® needed, refer to the coverage chart printed in the instruction sheet.  Pour EasyCast® over the plaque, starting in the center and pouring in circles until the project is covered with coating.  If necessary, very carefully spread it using a foam craft brush.  Use the heat gun or hair dryer to remove the bubbles in the EasyCast® layer.  Wait two hours and using a clean stir stick, scrape the excess drips from the underside of the plaque and allow the mosaic to cure for about 24 hours.  If mosaic pieces are sticking up through the EasyCast® layer, sand the surface flat and smooth with coarse sandpaper and apply another thick layer of EasyCast®.
TIP: Designs for mosaic projects may be found in mosaic or stained glass pattern books, coloring books, and stencil books.

Tuesday, July 12, 2016

A Forever Flower in a Vase with Resin

While at my sister's house last week, I was looking a vase she had with a single flower in it and thought it would be great display a vase with a single rose in it between our parents wedding photos.  I grabbed a silk rose and my resin to create this forever flower.


Materials:
  • EasyCast®
  • Silk Rose
  • Bud vase
  • Mixing cups
  • Stir sticks
  • Lighter
  • Tape

Project Instructions: 

 Gather your supplies.

 Mix together equal amounts of the EasyCast® resin and hardener, stir for 2 minutes. 

Pour into a second mixing cup and stir for another minute.

 Pour resin into the vase.  Use a lighter if need to remove any air bubbles.  Please note, that a few bubbles are alright and make the end result look more natural.

 Place the rose in the vase and secure in place with tape.  Let dry for 8 - 12 hours,

 Here is a photo showing the resin dry and looking just like water...

The beauty of this project is that you never have to worry about the water tipping over or the rose dying.

Thursday, July 7, 2016

EasySculpt Decorator Keepsake Hearts

Today designer Myléne Hillam shares how to create Decorator Keepsake Hearts using EasySculpt®


Materials:
  • EasySculpt®
  • Polystyrene heart
  • 2 - 10mm Fuchsia flat back Swarovski crystals
  • Jacquard Piñata Alcohol ink: Passion Purple & Señorita Magenta
  • Ranger Alcohol ink: Eggplant & Butterscotch
  • G-S Hypo Cement
  • Firm fitting latex gloves
  • Clay blade
  • Needle tool
  • Teflon craft sheet
  • Talcum powder
  • Timer

Project Instructions: 
Before beginning, put on your gloves – EasySculpt will be sticky while you are working with it. Re-powder your gloves as soon as the clay begins to stick to them. Lightly dust the Teflon craft sheet with powder.
Scoop out equal quantities about the size of large marbles of EasySculpt Parts A and B. Mix them together following the package instructions.
  1. Shape the EasySculpt into a circle and then place it on the top of the heart.
     
  2. Ease the clay around the heart. Gently stretch it to reach the bottom and trim away any excess. Smooth the seams out with your gloved fingers.
     
  3. Use a needle tool to pop any bubbles and smooth the hole out. Smooth out the clay evenly over the heart and set it aside on its back to firm up. Periodically check it during the next 2 hours and smooth out any wrinkles and flat spots, which form.
    Measure out pea-size quantities of Parts A and B and mix them together. Divide into two balls and flatten them into rough circles. On one, squeeze two drops of Eggplant ink and allow it to sit for a minute for the alcohol to evaporate before mixing it in thoroughly. Re-powder you gloves, flatten it again and add two more drops of alcohol ink. Mix it in as before. Keep re-powdering your gloves as necessary. Once the shade is quite dark, add two drops of Passion Purple alcohol ink and mix it in. Set aside on the Teflon sheet to firm up. Color the other ball with two drops of Señorita Magenta alcohol ink and mix it in. Set the colored EasySculpt aside and set the timer for 25 minutes.
  4. Glue the two crystals on the front of the heart, one in the peak of the heart and one on the opposite side near the bottom.
     
  5. Pinch a piece off the purple ball and roll it into a thin snake using the heel of your hand.
     
  6. Create an “S” shaped swirl with the snake, connecting the two crystals together.
     
  7. Pinch a piece of pink clay and roll it into a snake. Tip: If the EasySculpt is too soft to work with, let it sit for another 10 minutes. If it is too dry to stick to the heart, use a small amount of G-S Hypo Cement to adhere it to the surface. Coil it around the top crystal and form it into an “S” across to the right hand side of the heart. Make another snake; coil it around the bottom crystal and form it into an “S” shape on the left hand side of the heart. Continue adding swirls until you have covered the front of the heart, allowing some of the swirls to roll over the back. Take care as you work not to flatten the swirls. Balance the heart on a small bottle cap so that the clay on the back is elevated off your work surface. Set aside to firm up for 2 hours.
     
  8. Roll the leftover clay into a 3/16” wide log and slice it into 3/16” pieces.
     
  9. Roll each of the pieces into a ball.
     
  10. Form each ball into a teardrop by rolling one side of it between your fingers to form a point.
     
  11. Press the tip of the needle tool into the center of the teardrop. Form the rest of the log into balls of graduating sizes. Mix a small amount of clay and color it with Butterscotch ink. Set aside and set the timer for 30 minutes. Once firm, form into snakes and line the inside and outside the purple and pink swirls. With the left over clay, create more teardrops and graduated balls. Set aside to firm up for 2 hours.
     
  12. Use G-S Hypo Cement to attach the teardrops to some of the outer curves of the swirls, butting them up against each other at an angle.
     
  13. Attach balls of graduated sizes along the inside and outside of other curves. Create swirls on the back of the heart in the same way.

Tuesday, July 5, 2016

Resin Seashell Table Top

Today on the blog is a great way to display those treasures picked up at the beach this summer.  This is a multi-layered project that was created by Hilary
Stephens using EnviroTex Lite®.





Materials:
  • EnviroTex Lite®
  • Sand, shells, pebbles, etc.
  • Craft glue
  • Paint
  • Mixing buckets
  • Stir sticks
  • Propane torch or lighter
  • Craft brush
  • Craft glue
  • Acetone, optional

Project Instructions: 
  • If project base is made of wood, seal wood with a thin layer of white glue or paint the surface and let dry. The thin layer will seal the air pockets of the wood and prevent air from releasing bubbles in the thick layers of Envirotex Lite. If you choose to use Envirotex Lite as the thin sealing layer, apply with a sponge brush. Don't use the propane torch on this thin layer of Envirotex Lite. DO use the propane torch on subsequent layers to remove bubbles.
     
  • If a sand layer is desired, either brush with white glue and sprinkle sand onto table or if thick sand layer is desired, mix one layer of epoxy and add sand directly to bucket at time of mixing. Scrape mixture onto table and spread with clean craft stick. Allow for 12‐15 hours to dry if mixing coating with sand.
     
  • Glue seashells in place with craft glue that dries clear; fill any ruffled area of seashell with glue to prevent air from escaping from underneath. Allow glue to dry overnight. Remember to seal surface of porous shells and starfish so air doesn’t form bubbles in the Envirotex Lite.
     
  • Apply first of several layers of Envirotex Lite; do not use more coating than recommended on coverage amounts found on instruction page. For instance, one half gallon will cover 16 sq. feet 1/16th to 1/8th inch thick. Most seashell projects will require several layers; allow 8 hours between layers. Coating may be sanded between layers but it's not necessary. If surface is sanded, wipe with alcohol or acetone and a clean rag to remove dust particles. If surface is sanded it must be re‐coated.
     
  • If you wish the total depth of the epoxy coating to exceed 1/2 inch, please consider special ordering our EX‐74 coating. It is more UV stable and recommended when wishing to maintain clarity on a deep project. Special order the EX‐74 coating from the following distributors:
     
TIPS on BLENDING COATING: always measure equal parts of resin and hardener. Blend in bucket with (only) a wood paint stick for two minutes, mixing vigorously while scraping sides and bottom of bucket. Then pour coating into a new, clean bucket and blend for another minute. Thorough blending is achieved by the above mixing method only! Discard mixing stick. Pour coating onto project immediately. Use propane torch to remove bubbles from coating. You may need to use propane torch several items during a forty-five minute period following application. Important: read all instructions included in kit.